Comments for CAI Water Softener Systems | Filters | Ultraviolet Sterilization http://www.catalystsystems.org Water softeners, water filters, catalyst systems Thu, 12 Aug 2010 14:14:00 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2 hourly 1 Comment on Stay away from the Pelican by bcordonna http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=310&cpage=1#comment-2916 bcordonna Thu, 12 Aug 2010 14:14:00 +0000 http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=310#comment-2916 Actually, there is not sufficient media in the tank for your unit to function as a sediment filter. Even if there were enough media, the Pelican is an up-flow design that is not automatically backwashing, so the bed would foul over time unless you manually backwashed on a regular basis (~one to two times per week). One option you have is to convert the Pelican into an up-flow carbon filter. Configured in this way, you would be able to remove any chlorine that may be present, and also remove any off taste & odor. You would need to remove the existing media, add a gravel underbed, and GAC (granular activated carbon) media. The amount of media required would depend on the diameter and height of your existing tank. If you do not have any need for this type of filtration, it may just be better to remove it. You may want to avoid the "big box" store softeners like the one you refer to - they are very entry level (as indicated by the typical 1-year or 2-year warranty). You can spend just a little more, (normally ~$100.00 - $200.00) and find a good quality commercial water softener - we offer them - as do many other companies. Just shop around before making a purchase decision you may regret. Actually, there is not sufficient media in the tank for your unit to function as a sediment filter. Even if there were enough media, the Pelican is an up-flow design that is not automatically backwashing, so the bed would foul over time unless you manually backwashed on a regular basis (~one to two times per week).

One option you have is to convert the Pelican into an up-flow carbon filter. Configured in this way, you would be able to remove any chlorine that may be present, and also remove any off taste & odor. You would need to remove the existing media, add a gravel underbed, and GAC (granular activated carbon) media. The amount of media required would depend on the diameter and height of your existing tank. If you do not have any need for this type of filtration, it may just be better to remove it.

You may want to avoid the “big box” store softeners like the one you refer to – they are very entry level (as indicated by the typical 1-year or 2-year warranty). You can spend just a little more, (normally ~$100.00 – $200.00) and find a good quality commercial water softener – we offer them – as do many other companies. Just shop around before making a purchase decision you may regret.

]]> Comment on Stay away from the Pelican by kamadden http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=310&cpage=1#comment-2915 kamadden Wed, 11 Aug 2010 14:19:36 +0000 http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=310#comment-2915 Thanks. I did read the November post before I commented. I just wish it was something I read before I spent $2,000 on this thing. It seems that at the time, everything I read was positive... but now that I look back, much of what I read what planted on the Internet by Pelican. I'm not sure how long this system had been out in March 2007. All of their warranty info is a joke. It worked for about a year, which is the "highest performance warranty" period. The 10 years on the knobs and valves is also a joke - of course that stuff isn't going to "break", why would it? There are no plumbers in Michigan that even want to touch this system. They are sympathetic that we got taken though. At this point I'm posting every where I can what my experience has been so that hopefully I can prevent somebody else from going through this. I could have spent less on a Kinetico. Do you know enough about the Pelican to recommend anything that might help? Should we maybe open up the cannisters and clean out the inside? We change the pre-filter monthly. We did a back flush on it because Pelican said to. I suspect it's a waste of time to even try and that anything will just be short term (like days). We are thinking about buying a Whirlpool filter-less filtration unit to replace the pre-filter... but we may just be spinning with that idea. My husband wants to buy a Whirlpool 48 grain salt softner to put with it... I'm not sure what his logic is there. My guess is that he believes it is a good filtration system, just doesn't soften the water. Thanks. I did read the November post before I commented. I just wish it was something I read before I spent $2,000 on this thing. It seems that at the time, everything I read was positive… but now that I look back, much of what I read what planted on the Internet by Pelican. I’m not sure how long this system had been out in March 2007. All of their warranty info is a joke. It worked for about a year, which is the “highest performance warranty” period. The 10 years on the knobs and valves is also a joke – of course that stuff isn’t going to “break”, why would it? There are no plumbers in Michigan that even want to touch this system. They are sympathetic that we got taken though. At this point I’m posting every where I can what my experience has been so that hopefully I can prevent somebody else from going through this. I could have spent less on a Kinetico.

Do you know enough about the Pelican to recommend anything that might help? Should we maybe open up the cannisters and clean out the inside? We change the pre-filter monthly. We did a back flush on it because Pelican said to. I suspect it’s a waste of time to even try and that anything will just be short term (like days). We are thinking about buying a Whirlpool filter-less filtration unit to replace the pre-filter… but we may just be spinning with that idea. My husband wants to buy a Whirlpool 48 grain salt softner to put with it… I’m not sure what his logic is there. My guess is that he believes it is a good filtration system, just doesn’t soften the water.

]]> Comment on Kinetico model 30 problems by R.R.SHUKLA http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=218&cpage=1#comment-2914 R.R.SHUKLA Sun, 08 Aug 2010 15:54:33 +0000 http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=218#comment-2914 I have a Kinetico water softener in my hospital and Fresenius RO SYSTEM which is consistently growing bacteria in permeate water as well as after softener and charchoal filter . Raw water is giving sterile report on culturing .I want your advice on disinfection of charcoal filter and softener.Company representative is hesitent to disinfect softener and charcoal filter with puristeril . Is there really any problem with disinfection of softener and charcoal with puristeril ? I have a Kinetico water softener in my hospital and Fresenius RO SYSTEM which is consistently growing bacteria in permeate water as well as after softener and charchoal filter . Raw water is giving sterile report
on culturing .I want your advice on disinfection of charcoal filter and softener.Company representative is hesitent to disinfect softener and charcoal filter with puristeril . Is there really any problem with disinfection of softener and charcoal with puristeril ?

]]> Comment on 2810 FLECK Iron Breaker III by bcordonna http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=224&cpage=1#comment-2911 bcordonna Tue, 13 Jul 2010 23:19:46 +0000 http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=224#comment-2911 This is true, but assuming that the primary contaminant present is iron, lower levels of sulfur present would be oxidized into insoluble particulate sulfur oxide before contacting the media bed. Sulfur oxide is an allowable contaminant, and the larger particulate formed would be trapped within the Birm media bed, and sent to drain during automatic backwashing. In cases where high levels of sulfur oxide are present, carbon media should be used instead. This is true, but assuming that the primary contaminant present is iron, lower levels of sulfur present would be oxidized into insoluble particulate sulfur oxide before contacting the media bed. Sulfur oxide is an allowable contaminant, and the larger particulate formed would be trapped within the Birm media bed, and sent to drain during automatic backwashing. In cases where high levels of sulfur oxide are present, carbon media should be used instead.

]]> Comment on 2810 FLECK Iron Breaker III by AAA Aqua http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=224&cpage=1#comment-2909 AAA Aqua Tue, 13 Jul 2010 20:46:58 +0000 http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=224#comment-2909 >>The iron breaker system uses a specially designed control valve and a media tank partially filled with birm media. If you check out the manufacturers literature regarding birm media, you will see that it should not be used if there is any sulfur (hydrogen sulfide) in the water. >> the iron (and any sulfur or manganese) in your water is oxidized by the air, and also in the birm media. >>The iron breaker system uses a specially designed control valve and a media tank partially filled with birm media.

If you check out the manufacturers literature regarding birm media, you will see that it should not be used if there is any sulfur (hydrogen sulfide) in the water.

>> the iron (and any sulfur or manganese) in your water is oxidized by the air, and also in the birm media.

]]> Comment on Follow-up #2; Mag Ox/Neutralizer question by tealbingy http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=286&cpage=1#comment-2908 tealbingy Tue, 29 Jun 2010 15:47:37 +0000 http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=286#comment-2908 Thanks so much - now we know how to proceed! Thanks so much – now we know how to proceed!

]]> Comment on Why should I regenerate so frequently? by bcordonna http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=225&cpage=1#comment-2893 bcordonna Tue, 02 Mar 2010 18:47:20 +0000 http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=225#comment-2893 Sorry, we did not note your question added into the message body - we normally only look at comments. Anyway, To adjust the salt dosage setting, you need to go into the "System" programming (hold the NEXT and down arrow button in simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter this program level). The point is that you know you can get 32K capacity if you need it - but, can get almost as much capacity using far less salt per regeneration - it's really a decision based on performance vs. dollar value in salt consumption. Sorry, we did not note your question added into the message body – we normally only look at comments. Anyway, To adjust the salt dosage setting, you need to go into the “System” programming (hold the NEXT and down arrow button in simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter this program level). The point is that you know you can get 32K capacity if you need it – but, can get almost as much capacity using far less salt per regeneration – it’s really a decision based on performance vs. dollar value in salt consumption.

]]> Comment on PH Neutralizer Clogged by bcordonna http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=205&cpage=1#comment-2878 bcordonna Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:23:46 +0000 http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=205#comment-2878 Visit one of our main sites at www.caitechnologies to find the email information; however, sending an email to info@caitechnologies will also get you a response. The problem is probably due to the layered Corosex - it has solidified. Also it is a good idea to use Corosex II non-hardening material rather than generic magnesium oxide. More expensive, but tends not to solidify. Visit one of our main sites at http://www.caitechnologies to find the email information; however, sending an email to info@caitechnologies will also get you a response. The problem is probably due to the layered Corosex – it has solidified. Also it is a good idea to use Corosex II non-hardening material rather than generic magnesium oxide. More expensive, but tends not to solidify.

]]> Comment on PH Neutralizer Clogged by adostrom http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=205&cpage=1#comment-2877 adostrom Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:29:12 +0000 http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=205#comment-2877 Thanks for the quick reply. Our water was tested, not by you, but by a local certified lab, and the TDS was low. In fact, although many in our town have Iron or other issues, our only problem was low pH. I only recently bought a proper pH meter, so the pH may have been closer to 7.0 when the system was operating properly. I think that some of the problem may have been my doing - I didn't know any better, and the last time I added a lot of media I didn't actually mix it together, i just dumped in alternating layers of Calcite and Corosex. The material in the bottom of the tank has been there more than 10 years, for sure. I never got any maintenance instructions with the unit, other than top it off when it gets low. I'd be happy to e-mail your support group, but I can't find that e-mail address anywhere on the web site. Thanks. Thanks for the quick reply. Our water was tested, not by you, but by a local certified lab, and the TDS was low. In fact, although many in our town have Iron or other issues, our only problem was low pH. I only recently bought a proper pH meter, so the pH may have been closer to 7.0 when the system was operating properly.

I think that some of the problem may have been my doing – I didn’t know any better, and the last time I added a lot of media I didn’t actually mix it together, i just dumped in alternating layers of Calcite and Corosex. The material in the bottom of the tank has been there more than 10 years, for sure. I never got any maintenance instructions with the unit, other than top it off when it gets low. I’d be happy to e-mail your support group, but I can’t find that e-mail address anywhere on the web site. Thanks.

]]> Comment on Water softner gurgles puts air in water lines by bcordonna http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=203&cpage=1#comment-2876 bcordonna Wed, 04 Nov 2009 19:00:50 +0000 http://www.catalystsystems.org/?p=203#comment-2876 There must be air in the resin tank. It is acting in the same manner as a pressure tank in a well application, by pushing water out of the tank and into the household water lines. You see this on the meter when water is not being used. Take a flashlight and place it behind the tank when your meter is registering reverse flow - the tank is semi-transparent assuming that it does not have a tank jacket - you will probably be able to see a pocket of air. The air must be coming from somewhere, and if you by-pass the water softener, and do note any air in the lines after a few days, then it must be drawn in from a softener component. The air may be drawn in from any number of places, and may not be a brine tank problem at all – it may be the valve. One thing to consider is that the unit is 10 years old, and for about $600-$800 you can simply replace it with a new one - visit our site for details. There must be air in the resin tank. It is acting in the same manner as a pressure tank in a well application, by pushing water out of the tank and into the household water lines. You see this on the meter when water is not being used. Take a flashlight and place it behind the tank when your meter is registering reverse flow – the tank is semi-transparent assuming that it does not have a tank jacket – you will probably be able to see a pocket of air. The air must be coming from somewhere, and if you by-pass the water softener, and do note any air in the lines after a few days, then it must be drawn in from a softener component. The air may be drawn in from any number of places, and may not be a brine tank problem at all – it may be the valve. One thing to consider is that the unit is 10 years old, and for about $600-$800 you can simply replace it with a new one – visit our site for details.

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