Recommended Maintenance Program for Commercial Water Softener

What is the recommended maintenance program for a commerical water softener? Is there a website that details this information?

Answer: It depends on the type of control valve contained in your water softener system.  Common control manufacturers are Fleck (Pentair) CorporationGE (Autotrol) , and Clack Corporation.  You can contact these manufacturers for information specific to one of their controls.  However, typical maintenance would be semi-annual inspection and cleaning of the injector and injector screen assemblies, and cleaning of the brine tank.   There is other maintenance that may be required every few years (like replacement of the softener seals & spacers, removal of the piston to clean the control), but again, this depends on the type of control used.  Frequency of maintenance would depend on the water quality and operational environment of the water softener.

No Water In Water Softener Tank

I am a new homeowner and know very little about water softeners – I just had the resin tank replaced and had to empty and clean the water tank. I replaced the salt into the tank and it never seems to have any water at all in it. I have manually restarted the softener and it runs, but no water fills the tank. This question might be very simple for this forum to answer and I am grateful for any suggestions/solutions.

Answer: You may not see the water level in your water softener brine (salt) tank – normally it is well below the top level of salt. The amount of water found in the brine tank will vary depending on the water softener type and capacity, but in general (for standard down-flow type water softeners), 3 to 4 gallons of water would be present in the bottom of the brine tank at all times.  With less common proportional brining up-flow water softeners, there may be no water present at all in the brine tank between regenerations – these type of softeners add water to the tank only during the regeneration process – and all water is removed during regeneration.  Keep in mind that the actual level of water  in the brine tank will vary to some degree as the amount of salt in the tank displaces the water, and this makes the level difficult to predict.

If you find that there is never any water placed into the brine tank during regeneration, this would mean that your water softener system is not functioning correctly.  If this is the case, and you can let us know the make and model of your water softener, then we may be able to help you further.

Frozen Water Softener Resin

I live in Canada.  During a construction project, my water softener was disconnected and set in the garage.  The resin tank was at least 3/4 full of water when it was set upright in the garage.  The temperature in the garage dropped and the water (and resin) in the resin tank froze solid.  Will the resin be damaged in any way due to the freezing?  The tank and controls are all ok (it is now back in the basement and totally thawed) but I am worried that the resin may be damaged and thought that I would try to find out if it would be damaged before I spent the time reconnecting it in its new location.

Answer: Unfortunately, resin can be damaged by freezing. Freezing can cause the resin to turn “mushy”, and the best way to determine if this has happened is to remove the control valve and inspect the resin directly.  Cation exchange resin that is in good shape consists of very tiny plastic-like beads, which are hard and sometimes brittle.  If your resin is very soft and easily broken up, it is probably in need of replacing.  We offer replacement resin on our site at www.caitechnologies.com, on the “Chemials, Resin and Filter Media” page if you think that you will need it.  Please let us know if you have any other questions!

Salt Free Water Softeners

After 30 years, I suppose it is time to replace our softener!  Have been trying to research the salt free type of softener, but blogs are all one sided…supported by those promoting this type of softener.  I have the concerns about environment, and health, but not sure that these softeners would handle the hardness of our water, just north of Milwaukee.  Can you provide the pros and cons of this type of softener?

Answer: Great to hear that you got 30 years of service out of the softener!  You must have good overall water quality.  Anyway, there is quite a lot of controversy regarding magnetic, catalytic and other “salt free” type water softening products.  We hesitate commenting on their performance directly, as a well known independent industry association that did comment was tied up in very expensive litigation, and forced to withdraw their findings.  However, you may note that none of the other well-known major suppliers of water softener systems (like Culligan or Kinetico) offer these devices. You can visit one of our sites at eWaterOnline.net to find out more regarding these products from government and independent sources.

Many “salt free” systems are also referred to as “Water Conditioners”.   These products do not soften water, as they generally contain only carbon, or sometimes mixed with a second media in a mixed-bed design.  These products can remove chlorine and other contaminants, but do not provide soft water.  Many times they claim NSF certification, but if you visit the NSF website – you will find that they are mostly certified only to NSF standard 42  – a specification that covers aesthetic  effects.  Also, there is a difference between using NSF certified parts in your equipment, and having a NSF “system” certification.  All equipment components used in potable water system must be NSF certified – everything in any of our equipment is – we just don’t bother to mention it.  You will note that some products have a NSF certification followed by a number, like reverse osmosis system have an NSF 58 certification, ultraviolet sterilization have an NSF 55, and many water softener have a standard 44.  This means that the NSF have tested and certified that the product meets the manufacturers claims.  We are not aware of any salt free water softener systems that have obtained a standard 44 certification.

Regarding your health concerns, water softeners do not really add very much sodium to the water (only 8 mg/l sodium per grain of hardness contained in your water).  This means that when drinking a normal amount of softened water each day (within a typical hardness range), you will consume about the same amount of salt that is contained in a can of soda, or a slice of white bread.  You can’t normally taste it – usually only detectable by laboratory means.  However, if you or any of the residents of the home are under a doctor’s direction to restrict sodium completely from your diet, or if you have very high levels of hardness in your water (40 GPG and above) you may want to use potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride in your softener.  In this way, only potassium is added to your water – no sodium at all – potassium is a nutrient and a fertilizer.  We always recommend that you use sodium chloride or potassium chloride purified for use in water softeners (available at many supermarkets, plumbing supply and hardware stores).  Non-sodium potassium chloride is commonly available at supermarkets and “Big Box” stores, and sold under the brand names Morton KCL, K-Life, Softouch and Nature’s Own.  There is a nationwide chain called “Tractor Supply Company” that carries potassium chloride at very reasonable pricing. The down-side if that potassium chloride is still more expensive than sodium chloride.  Most people use sodium chloride.

 If you want to minimize sodium discharge into the environment, consider a softener like our WS2FM Aqua-Pro softener.  This is a counter-current proportional brining water softener, that is very salt efficient, as it only regenerates the portion of the cation exchange resin bed that is exhausted.  Standard design water softeners regenerate the entire bed during each regeneration, so only regenerating a part of the bed results in less salt consumed and discharged.  This said, salt savings of a proportional brining water softener vs. a standard design softener are not significant enough to be a monetary issue, it’s mostly an environmental consideration.  Also, using a proportional brining softener does not mean that less sodium is placed into your water – it only means that less salt is consumed during regeneration – saves in the amount of salt you need to purchase, and discharges less sodium into the environment.  

Galvanized Pipes

I have an 80 year old home and some of the pipes are still the galvanized variety.  One hot water pipe (second floor bathroom sink) has become clogged, almost to the point of blocking the water completely.  Can this situation be remedied using a water softener, or do I need to tear into the walls (ceilings, etc.) and replace the pipes with copper?

Answer:The deposits on your piping that are causing the clogging are due to scale formation (calcium and magnesium).  A water softener does reverse the scale deposition process, but it is very slow.  From you description, it seems as if the amount of scale clogging your pipes is significant, and it might take many years to make any noticible difference – possibly not worth the wait.  If you do decide to replace your piping, we would recommend that you install a water softener to keep this problem from reoccurring.  One note, you might consider replacing your piping with PEX rather than plastic.  This is a good choice for re-piping older homes where it can be difficult to work within existing walls. PEX stands for “cross-linked polyethylene”.  This is a flexible and very durable piping within a wide range of temperatures and pressure.