I have a Culligan Mark 25 water softener.  Because of its age and use, I suspect the resin is no longer functional.  The small tank with the timer and bypass valve is very heavy.  Is the weight because of the gravel in this tank?  Can new resin be purchased and used to recharge the small tank?  I see no way that the tank can be opened easily so it may not be a do it yourself project.

Answer:  The tank you are referring to is not only filled with ion-exchange resin, but gravel, and also filled with water.  All this would make the tank very heavy.  You can by-pass the water softener, relieve the tank pressure, and use a wet/dry shop vacuum to remove the spent media.  You can purchase the material you need from many local supply stores, or also on our site at  http://www.caitechnologies.com – visit the online store, and on the top of the “Chemicals, Resin, & Filter Media” page you will see the category “Water Softener Cation Exchange Resin” – the C100e or C249 resins are good ones to consider.  You also need replacement gravel for the bottom of the tank, and this is found further down the page under the “Filter media” category – it’s listed as Garnet.  1 ft3 of resin = 1 cubic foot bag.  If you are unsure of the amount of resin you require (in general) 7 inch diameter tanks are 24K (3/4 ft3), 8 inch diameter tanks are 32K (1 ft3), 10 inch diameter tanks are 48K (1 1/2 ft3), and 12” diameter tanks are 64K (2 ft3).  Do not overfill with resin, only put the required amount into you tank – no more – the resin will not fill the tank completely, there will be a significant amount of empty space on top of the resin bed, and this is required for proper water softener operation.  You will need to place the center tube (screen/basket on the end of a PVC pipe also called a riser) onto the bottom of the tank, and cover the basket with one to two inches of gravel.  By the way, most control valves simply unscrew from the resin tanks.  Grasp the tank firmly, and turn the control counter-clockwise to remove.  Culligan did have some unsusal methods of fastining tanks to controls in the distant past, and if this does not seem to be a normal threaded connection, contact Culligan directly for more information on how to remove the control.

We are updating our lake cabin and need to update the softner–we are generally only there on weekends. We have very hard smelly well water and want a good system that takes out the rust etc. was thinking of a Kinetico system–any other suggestions?

Answer: The Kinetico is a good quality system – the only one available that is truly non-electric – if you are not able to get electricity to the location that you plan to install the softener, then Kinetico is your best option.  However, if providing electricity is no problem, then there are other alternatives you can consider.  Stay away from any manufacture offering “magnetic” or “catalytic” water conditioners – there is no evidence indicating that these work at all. Many companies offer single and twin tank design (similar to Kinetico, but electrically powered).  There are a few things to consider when selecting a softener.

We would need a water analysis to recommend the correct sized softener for your application (you can get a free analysis on our site).  You should always select a unit that matches your inlet water supply pipe diameter to maximize flow and minimize pressure drop.  In most cases this is either 3/4 or 1 inch.  The supply pipe diameter is the one that comes into your home.  In the case of municipal water supply, this is the diameter of the pipe immediately after the water meter.  If you are on a well, the pipe is the one immediately after your pressure tank (also called an expansion or bladder tank).  Do not consider the larger 1″ size if your pipe is 3/4″ in diameter – only costs more and provides you with no real benefit, however, if you have 1″ or 1 1/4″ pipe – get a 1″ or 1 1/4 inch system. 

You can take a look at some of the system our company offers to give you an idea of what you might want to go with.  We offer softeners configured with Autotrol, Fleck and Clack controls – these are three of the larger suppliers of controls – either of these manufactures would be a good choice.  We recommend that you install a “metered” system for most efficient operation.  The metered systems actually measure the water consumption in your home and regenerate only when necessary.

To give you a general idea of price, our most popular microprocessor metered system with 3/4″ connections is the Autotrol 255/460i (CAI Model WS1SM, 32,000 grain capacity – $610.00 delivered). If you will install the softener on 1″ water supply piping, we would suggest an Autotrol “Performa” 268/460i (CAI model WS3SM-HC, 32K – $735.00 delivered).  If you went with a twin design, you might look at our model SET9100, 32K -$1055.00 delivered).
Look around for a softener that has good quality resin, includes a by-pass valve, high flow 1.05 inch riser with gravel underbed or equipped with a turbulator), back-up safety float check, round brine tank, brine tank grid.  Most quality units have 5 year warranties on the valve/control – 5 years on the brine tank and components – 10 years on the resin tank.  Hope this helps!

I posted yesterday regarding whether I had soft water or not.  I went ahead and filled my water softener above the halfway point with salt last night and regenerated the water softener.  I was able to see the salt level visually decrease about 2-3 inches.  I expected to feel a difference this morning in the water “feel” in the shower but didn’t really notice it.  Does it take awhile to drain the hot water heater of the existing “softer” water?  Would I be able to tell the impact on cold water right away?  Are there some simpler tests (besides the test kits) I can do at home to see the difference in hard and soft water?

Answer: You should receive softened water on the cold water side very quickly.  It’s true that the hard water contained within the hot water tank will take some time to exchange with the newly softened water, but this will happen within a day or two.  Commonly available test kits that use litmus paper are sometimes not very accurate, but you can visit a pool supply store where you should be able to find a better quality drop (titration) test kit.  In addition, many pool and water softener suppliers will test your water for hardness at no charge.  You can send our company a sample of your water for a free analysis if you prefer.

We just had a interesting conversation with an engineer from our partner company in the Pacific Rim.  Transcript below:

- Hello, I need to know size of mountain boat for the UV system.
- What size boat?
- Yes
- No, I mean what size boat do you have?
- We did not receive the system yet, but we need to know the size of the mountain boat.
- Well, we would need to know the size too.  We can’t recommend a system size until we know the size of the boat?
- Does not the system come with mountain boats?
- I don’t know, I don’t even know what a mountain boat is!  Is it large or small, for fresh or salt water?
- Small, and it should be stainless.
- Marine stainless?
- Is it?
- What?
- The mountain boat! (at this point she is laughing along with me)
- OK, let’s start over.  Is the boat large like a ocean liner or small like a cabin cruiser.
- Huh?  It’s just a boat….not big…you use to fasten UV to wall…

- Hmmmmm……..you mean……a mounting bolt?

- Yes, mountain boat.
- 1/4×20 NPT
- Ah, thank you, have nice weekend!
- Bye

Hi all, I am trying to determine whether my 2 month old water softener is working.  I do notice my dishes being  much more clean than in the past.  I put two 40 pound bags in my water softener originally.  The water softener is regenerating on its own and I also have manually regenerated it quite a few times.  My concern is that even with all those regenerations I still have salt in my tank (although not as much as when I first filled it).  I was told I would need to probably fill it once a month (4 people in household).  When I run the diagnostics it shows water flowing through on the LED meter.  Currently the water level is higher than the salt level by about 2 inches.   Could that be a problem?
So everything SEEMS normal to me in terms of the operation…except I would have thought my salt would have ran out with all those regens.  There is an efficiency setting on my softener that claims 60% less salt usage.  That has been on up to this point.  Any thoughts?  The salt pellets look smaller and I believe the level has lowered a little…but I can’t tell.

Answer: Your unit may be functioning OK.  At a high efficiency setting, the water softener would not be using much salt.  If there is a significant amount of water above the salt (water filling as much a half of the tank), the you may have an air leak, and we have a document available to that will show you how to resolve this problem. However, if you only have two bags of salt in the unit, and only two inches of water above the salt, then it seems as if your unit is functioning correctly.  One way to determine if your water softener is working, is to place it into a regeneration stage called “brine draw/slow rinse”.  In this position, brine solution (water) is slowly drawn into the water softener so that regeneration can occur.  If you see the water level decreasing in the brine tank during this stage, then it is likely that your softener is working well.  If you are not sure of how to put the softener into brine draw, you can just initiate a manual regeneration and wait for this cycle (normally the second cycle after a 10 minute backwash).  Procedures for putting some of the more common controls into brine draw are outlined in the “Resolving an Air Leak” document.

I have no clue how to use the water softener that I have. I bought my house 2 years ago and never got anything about the water softener. I looked online for the manual and can’t seem to find it. It is an Ionicron.

Anwser: Just take a digital picture of the control valve on your water softener (with the cover removed), and email it to us at info@caitechnologies.com. We will be glad to identify it for you if possible.

I live in a remote area.  We are on a well and septic system. Every spring and fall when the water table changes we get small black particles through the system.  I now have a screen separator in line. I have a GXSF23Z water softener that has been in service 6 years.  In the last couple of years it has been on and off at best in producing soft water.  2 years after installation it began to degrade in effectiveness but if I remember correctly it was because the orifices would get plugged in the nozzle.

3 years ago I began having problems with the softener again.  The water table was very low and everything in the house had what looked like black sand in it.  Plugged the screens in the facets etc. Around that time the water level increased a foot in the brine tank.  I lowered the Styrofoam float on the brine float rod. (After reading some of the posts in here I am wondering if I was mistaken to do that.)  I then installed a mesh water separator that removes sediment.   After that time the only way I could get it to produce soft water was to add iron-out weekly, directly into the brine before regeneration and regenerate nightly.

I originally came to your site looking for media to rebuild the softener.  Lately it does not seem to be working though it goes through its regeneration cycle. Recently I have begun to have my doubts that a softener is the correct solution to my problem.  So I am not sure I am even going in the right direction by trying to repair the unit.

I need to do something to fix the quality of the water.  The water in a standing tub is transparent green/yellow; it stains the tub iron red, and smells like sulfur.  If you clean the shower with “The Works” shower cleaner it takes about 3 showers before you see a red cast. Some of my neighbors use water softeners (we have the same issues).  Mostly they work but, it is at best an on an off thing.

Recently one neighbor installed a chlorine injection system that he assembled after his softener.  It works great and eliminates both the red stains and the sulfur odor.  The drawback is that he has to inject chlorine to the point that you can smell it in the water.  He has no mixing tank in front of the injector.   The injector pump is a single rate unit run by a sensitive flow switch. He uses a RO unit for drinking water and keeps the carbon filter changed. The reason I have not built a similar setup is I am afraid of killing off my septic tank bacteria.  Been there, the result is no fun!

It seems that the Iron is fed on by harmless bacteria that change the iron from clear to red and produce the sulfur smell as a byproduct.   Is this correct? How would you handle this?  I am not opposed to using a RO for drinking water.  I just hate red stained clothes, and a tub that looks like it was drawn with water from the great dismal swamp. I also don’t want to bear the cost of a new drain field for my septic.

Here is the analysis of the water:
Hardness 26 GPG
pH 7.4 units
Iron 3.2 Total, Ferric Iron:  0.4
Iron Bacteria: Yes
Manganese .4
Color: Clear
Smell: Sulfur
TDS: 420 PPM
Well depth 140 ft, average water pressure is 35 psi.

What would be a good, simple system that would clear the water without unnecessary equipment or septic damage?  The hardness of the water is does not seem objectionable and if a softener is not necessary I would rather not pour salt into the septic system.

Answer:  The only way to effectively resolve a iron bacteria issue is with a chlorine chemical injection system (described below).  As you mention, your sulfur odor may be due to the presence of iron sulfur bacteria.  To check for the presence of iron bacteria, open any toilet tank that has been in service for at least a few months – if you have iron bacteria present, this material can sometimes be found as a black or dark reddish material “growing” on the inside of the tank.  If you find this material, take a small amount of it, and leave it to dry on a porcelain sink.  If it remains “sticky” after some time, then it may be iron bacteria – if it dries to a powder, then it is most likely a normal iron deposit.  If you feel iron bacteria may be present, then chlorine injection is the best solution.  The chlorine first kills the bacteria present on the outside of the iron or sulfur particle, and then with the bacteria destroyed, the chlorine oxidizes the iron or sulfur into a precipitate.  If you decide to go this route, install a backwashing carbon filter downstream of the chlorine injection system.  The carbon filter will remove the chlorine from your water, and also filter out any precipitate formed during the chlorine oxidation process.  You don’t need to worry about damaging your septic system with the added chlorine as long as you regularly replace the carbon in the backwashing carbon filter – carbon has a very high holding capacity for chlorine and will capture all of it – most people replace the carbon every two to three years depending on the severity of the problem.

A liquid chlorination injection system meters liquid chlorine right into your water supply.  Our system is composed of a chemical feed pump, static mixer, solution storage tank and retention tank.  When your well pump comes on, the chemical feed pump adds chlorine solution into the static mixer (which aids in the uniform mixing process) and enters the retention tank where the disinfection/oxidation process occurs. The chemical injection system includes the following:

a. Stenner 15 gallon STS solution storage & chemical feed pump system
b. 80 gallon retention tank
c. In-line static mixer

You typically use a starting mix of 1/2 gallon household chlorine bleach to the 15 gallon chemical solution tank to start.  You then vary the pump feed rate until you obtain the desired residual chlorine concentration (about 0.5 ppm free chlorine) – typically a setting of 50% works well.  You can obtain a chlorine test kit locally from most plumbing supply stores (and many pool supplies) – they are very inexpensive.

You can see pictures of these systems on our site on our Chemical Injection Systems Information page.  As we mentioned, you should install a backwashing carbon filter (normally 1.5 ft3 in size) and replace the carbon contained in this filter on a regular basis (every two to three years), and if it is fouled, you might want to do it when you install a chlorination system.  A backwashing carbon filter can be found on our Filters & pH Neutralizers page.

Last in line would be your water softener.  The above equipment will only resolve your iron /manganese/sulfur odor problems – it will not provide softened water.  It sounds like your softener may need to have the resin bed replaced, and new resin can also be found on our Chemical, Resin, & Filter Media page.  Please let us know if you have any other questions.