Water softner smell/ buildup

I work for a developer and we have an ongoing problem. Our homeowners are complaining of a smell in mostly just one of their sinks. A black gunk can mostly be found in the traps at these sinks. They are on city water and almost all of these homeowners do have water softners. We have tried numerous things including changing sinks, changing traps, changing water heater anodes, adding vents to the sink in question. After doing research online I am guessing that this is sulfur residue (the black gunk) in their traps. But how is it getting there? Can it be something that the water company is using in their plant?

Answer: There many causes of black staining, but the common ones are from the presence of sulfur, manganese, or bacteria.  It is unlikely that sulfur or manganese would be prevalent in a municipal water supply, as they would be removed at the point of distribution to protect the delivery system.  In addition, you would not be noticing the black material and odor at only one point in the home – it would be evident at all sinks in the home (to varying degrees due to differences in water usage).

This is something that we have run into before.  Occasionally, a homeowner will complain about an odor coming from only one or two sinks in the home (mostly from a bathroom sink).  This seems surprising, as it can happen on municipal water supplies containing chlorine.  An easy conclusion to reach is that the odor cannot be caused by a bacteria, as the chlorine in the piping would destroy it.  However, this is not always the case.  Collect both hot & cold water in a container directly from the faucet at the offending sink.  Remove the sample from the room, and smell it.  If it does not have any odor, go back to the sink, and run the water again.  If the odor is now present, it is likely that a bacterial growth has developed in the sink trap (this can happen fairly quickly), and the action of fresh water passing down into the drain blows a “sulfur like” odor of decomposition back up into the room.  The concentration of chlorine contained in the municipal water is not high enough (and there may not be sufficient contact time with the bacteria) to destroy it completely in the drain.

There are other possibilities, but periodic chlorination of the drain should resolve the problem.  As to why this only happens in some localities, we do not quite understand.  Probably has something to do with area humidity, temperature, atmospheric pressure, chlorine concentration of the water, etc. – who knows?  Maybe one of our other contributors has some experience with this situation?

Potassium Chloride

I installed a softener about six months ago and have been using potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride as a regeneration agent. The softener seems to be working fine, but requires regeneration more often than I would expect based on calculation from water hardness, usage and softener capacity. I understood that KCl and NaCl were essentially the same as far as softener setup goes. If that’s not the case, should I extend the recharge cycle or just lower the trip limit for a recharge? Thanks!

Answer:  Sorry for the late reply – busy week here!  To some extent it depends on what type and quality of cation exchange resin you are using, but assuming that your water softener resin is a generic “high-capacity” type, it’s not always the case that sodium and potassium chloride are equivalent.   Potassium chloride (KCL) adheres more strongly to the water softener resin, and this can reduce the exchange efficiency when compared to sodium chloride (NaCL), requiring more potassium chloride used per regeneration.  For most good quality water softeners, you won’t need to make any adjustment.  However, if you are using potassium chloride, and also trying maximize the capacity of your softener, a good rule of thumb is to use an additional 4 pounds of salt per cubic foot of resin per regeneration.  Hope this answers your question.

Salty Water

Our water has started tasting like salt for the last month. What causes this and what can I do?

Answer: We are assuming that you have a water softener installed.  If this is the case, there are a number of possibilities, but the underlying problem is that brine solution is being drawn into the resin tank, and once there, the excess salt solution is not being washed to drain during the rinse cycle.  This is normally caused my either a kink or obstruction in the water softener drain line, or a fouled resin bed.  Check the drain line to be sure that it is clear of any obstructions, it should be free flowing right to the drain.  By the way, a good rule of thumb is to be sure that the drain line inside diameter is no less than 1/2 inch in size.  If the drain line appears to be clear, by-pass the water softener.  If pressure seems to improve right away, this may be an indication of a fouled resin bed that requires replacement with new resin.  Many things can foul a resin bed, sediment, iron or iron bacteria, and others.  Also, lower quality resins may not be very resistant to chlorine attack, and when present in very high concentrations, even good quality resins may be susceptible to attack from elevated levels of chlorine or chloramine.  If you can provide us with more details regarding this problem, perhaps we can help you further.

Countertop Water Filter vs Cartridge Water Filters

I guess I am a little confused as to the difference between the cartridge filter and the countertop water filters.

I know how a countertop filter works, and I also noticed that you have a countertop reverse osmosis system available, but I have some questions regarding the cartridge water filters.

Firstly, where are the cartridge filters placed? Can this water filter be placed at the main of my house or is it just installed under the sink? If I have a cartridge filter will I have filtered water for my entire house, or just a particular faucet? If I decided to go with the cartridge water filter, can I still install a reverse osmosis system under my sink?

To me it looks like the countertop reverse osmosis system is the least costly, with the most features, but if I a cartridge system can provide purified water for my entire house I may go with something like that instead.

I am looking for your expert advice.

Answer:  A cartridge water filter is generally used to remove sediment, VOCs (solvents), chlorine, etc. from the “whole-house” water supply.  However, it’s very common to use a “point-of-use” reverse osmosis system installed at the kitchen sink or refrigerator water dispenser in conjunction with a cartridge filter.  While the cartridge filter removes some contaminants for all of the household water, the RO system remove impurities to provide a much better quality of water for drinking and cooking.  The quality of water that you can expect from an RO system is similar to bottled water that you would purchase – normally bottled water incorporates reverse osmosis in the manufacturing process.

Water Softeners, Iron Filters & Septic Tanks

I have read the effects of water softener discharge on septic systems, but I was wondering if there is any information available on whether iron filters can affect septic systems. Could a iron filter actually be beneficial for my septic tank?

Answer:  Doubtful that it will actually help it – probably will have no significant effect at all.  The only issue that we can think of is a possible effect of the extra hydraulic load (discharge water).  However, filter discharge water is only a very small portion of the total amount of water discharged into the septic. Probably nothing to worry about.  Please let us know if you have any other questions.

Filter to get iron or rust out of water?

I have lived in my house for about 3 years now, and whenever I don’t use my water regularly the next time I run the water is has a rust color to it. The house is very old, and I am assuming the pipes are too, but I don’t think my water should come out orange. I notice the rust color the most when I am running the water from my bathtub faucets, but I don’t know if this is just because my tub is white. If I let the water run for a few minutes it appears to clear up.

Do I need new pipes somewhere, or would a filter help? I was on your site checking out the iron filters…is what I needed?

I was reading about how to remove sulfur and iron from your water, but I am not sure if a water filter would fix my problem. Any suggestions?

Answer: Assuming that your water is drawn from on on-site private well, the orange color is probably due to the presence of ferric (particulate) iron.  Oxygen is contained in water, and contact with oxygen over a period of time causes the ferrous (dissolved) iron to fall out of solution as ferric (red water) iron particulate.  A probable reason that it clears up after you allow it to run for awhile is that the stagnant water in your pipes and well has sufficient contact time with oxygen to come out of solution.  When you run your tap for some period of time, fresh water from a location that has less dissolved oxygen flows through your piping, and is clear.  A simple test to see if this is the case would be to collect some of the clear water in a glass, and allow it to sit over night.  In the morning, you should see some orange particulate in the bottom of the glass.  In any case, there are a number of ways to correct this problem like an iron specific filter or water softener.  The best method will depend on the form of iron and amount contained in your water, and other factors like pH, manganese, hardness, etc.  You can visit our site to find out more about how to sample you water and send it to our lab for a free analysis.  We will get right back to you with the results, and recommend the best option for correction of this problem.  We will need to know your pipe diameter (normally 3/4 or 1 inch) and the number of residents in your home.