Iron and hardness problem

I currently have a regular ion exchange water softener that is simply no longer doing the job. I would like to replace this with a new system. Everything turns orange and I’m constantly ruining clothes. My plan is to add a high flow sediment filter, followed by some type of iron filtration system. I will also be replacing my water tank and my hot water heater since they’ve accumulated a large amount of iron.

I have a few questions:
1) How effective and reliable are the air injection oxidation based systems such as the OXY-MAX?
2) If I go with a more traditional system, Manganese Greensand or Birm?
3) Do I also need a regular, ion exchange water softener to deal with hardness?
4) What type of sediment filter should I use to pre-filter my water? I worry about flow rate and cost of replacement filters.
5) With the above systems, what type of maintenance is required? Will I need to “backwash” with special chemicals? Do I need to replace media and/or filters, and if so, how often?
Any help would be appreciated..

Answer:

1) How effective and reliable are the air injection oxidation based systems such as the OXY-MAX?  Very effective – the Oxy-Max system will resolve very high iron level problem.  While specific iron removal efficiency depends on your water quality, it is not unusual for the Oxy-Max system to handle in the 10 ppm range – sometimes higher.  The iron in the water being treated is oxidized during normal operation, becoming ferric (particulate) iron, and then filtered out in the Birm media bed.  The Birm media requires the 15% dissolved oxygen/iron content – but there is always plenty of excess oxygen available with these designs – so the Birm functions properly, not only to remove any residual ferrous (dissolved) iron, but also acting as a particulate filter media.

2) If I go with a more traditional system, Manganese Greensand or Birm?  Although we offer both of these systems, you would probably be better off with an air injection system like the Oxy-Max (as discussed above) or an Iron-Pro system.  Both of these system incorporate birm media in their design anyway.  When using any system containing birm, it is important to be sure that the raw water pH is above 6.8 units, or the birm will lose activity over time. In addition, the manganese greensand filter requires the use of potassium permanganate (a regenerate that re-oxidizes the filter bed), and this adds an on-going expense that you would not have using the chemical free iron filters mentioned above.

3) Do I also need a regular, ion exchange water softener to deal with hardness?  Yes.  Only a standard water softener will resolve your hardness problem – the iron filter discussed above will only remove iron, manganese, and some levels of sulfur.

4) What type of sediment filter should I use to pre-filter my water? I worry about flow rate and cost of replacement filters.  If you decide to use on the iron filter as discussed, these filter are also self cleaning particulate filter, that will remove sediment down to 20 microns in diameter.  You should not require an additional pre-filter, unless there is a specific sediment issue where small sediment is present.

5) With the above systems, what type of maintenance is required? Will I need to “backwash” with special chemicals? Do I need to replace media and/or filters, and if so, how often?  The brim in the iron filter system discussed requires replacement every 4 to 5 years at a cost of $110.00 (delivered). No chemical backwashing is required – the system automatically backwash (two times per week) with water.

Hope this helps!

What kind of filter system do I need?

We just bought a house with a well.  The water that comes out of the faucets is yellow & has a metalic taste.  The water at the well is fairly clear, but turns pale yellow within a day.  The water purity tests were clear for bacteria and pesticides.  The other test shows:

pH = 5
Total Alkalinity = 0
Total Chlorine = 0.2
Iron, Copper Nitrate & Nitrite are all 0

How can we make this water drinkable?

Answer: Something does not add up here.  You mention that iron was reported at zero, but the yellow coloration is almost certainly due to the presence of iron.  Iron dissolved in water (ferrous iron) is clear, but after sitting for some time exposed to air, the process of oxidation will turn iron into particulate (ferric-rust) form, and it becomes visible.  However, if your well water is clear – the analysis you report may have been only of the well water – not the water after it passed through the piping.  The low water pH may be dissolving something in the piping, and causing this problem.  However, if the well water was not clear, the color may be due to tannins, colloidal clay, or a number of other possibilities.  Rather than guess, you should first obtain another water analysis.  We offer one at no charge at our site on the “Free Water Analysis” page.  We will be pleased to recommend the equipment you require for your application based on our analysis.  We would recommend that you send us two samples, one taken directly from the well, and the second from your faucet.  At the minimum you will require some type of pH neutralizer, and possibly a water softener and/or contaminant specific filter. Also, chlorine is present – please let us know if you are adding chlorine to your water, and if so, how?  Best regards!

Switching salts and pipe corrossion

Hello: We are using potassium chloride in our water softener and would like to change to sodium chloride.  We were told by our realtor when we purchased the house that if we switched to a salt from the potassium then it would ruin the water pipes in the house.  Is this true?

No.  The process of ion exchange adds a very small amount of sodium or potassium to your water (ppm level – normally only measurable by laboratory methods).  Generally, it can be stated that cations of sodium and potassium exert little effect on corrosion rate.  Whether there is sodium chloride or potassium chloride in your water at these levels should have no effect on your piping.

Is my water softner clogging the drain pipe?

I just had a Water Boss installed three months ago, having replaced a Kenmore softener that had been used for previous years. Now this month, I noticed a slow flowing drain, and gradually, it has stopped draining altogether. The pipe drains (1st) a kitchen sink without a garbage disposer, then a horizontal axis washing machine, and then the water softener’s discharge hose that flows when the softener does its recharge cycle. On down the drain pipe, a shower and bathroom sink feed into the same drain line, and they are still operating normally.
I tried a bunch of different drain clearing chemical products, both liquids and gels. Then I tried a light weight spring wire boring tool, which failed to clear the clog, but seemed to push it farther down the pipe? The wire boring tool brought out some granules of crusty lime-looking deposits from the pvc pipe. Afterwards, I noticed the drain got worse, going from slow to all but completely stopped. It is extremely slow draining now.
I’m wondering if the discharge hose from the Water Boss softener might be depositing minerals that are building up in the drain pipe? The clog doesn’t seem like a hair/grease/lint type of clog and isn’t responding to chemicals to clear it.
Should I be running the water softener discharge pipe to a separate “grey line” drain pipe that doesn’t flow to our rural home’s septic tank? Please advise. Thanks

Control – water softeners – does not seem to be working

I have a 255/762 Autotrol Logix water softener that I just installed.  The LCD blinks between 1400 and 0.  When the “0″ is displayed there is also a little faucet symbol.  My question is that while we have used water, the “0″ hasn’t changed in almost a week.  Can you help me?

Answer: In standard operating mode the unit displays gallons remaining until regeneration is required (that would be the 1400 number, and over time it should be counting down), and flow rate.  The “0″ you are referring to means no water is being metered – the “faucet symbol” also accompanies this display.  If you run water and look at the unit the faucet should blink, and the display should change to reflect the volume of water (in gallons per minute) being metered.  If the 1400 is not counting down, and the display is not changing when water is being used, then there are a few possible problems:

1) Check to be sure that the unit is not in by-pass – seems like a silly thing to check – but sometimes this turns out to be the problem.
2) Check to be sure the unit is programmed properly.  We prepared programming instructions specific to you unit – you can download it by clicking here.  Don’t use the one in the manual – they can be a little confusing – this document makes programming a little easier.
3) It might be that the sensor cable is not fully inserted into the sensor receptacle.  Just push/pull on the sensor to make sure that it correctly locked into the slot with its “bayonet” type mount.  The sensor “clicks” into a socket located on the outlet port that connects to your homes water. Please let us know if this resolves the problem, and best regards,